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From the Sublime to the Ridiculous

Mexican LineupThe ridiculous part: I ain’t gonna tell you where I am!

Right. Join me in Mexico for a surf trip but you don’t know where you’re going.

Right. Trust me!


If you’re seriously interested, email me and unless you sound like a flake or like someone who has it in for me, I’ll spill the beans.

I’m trusting you that you won’t lie and say you’re interested just to find out where I am. Anyone does that, the vibe of contempt I send north will rattle your windows.


Click below to see a video


In need of some warm water point waves? Come say hi to my sorry ass in Mexico.

The sublime part is the surf. Been good (chest high or better, usually better) every day since I arrived January 5th. When I say every day, I mean every day. Seven days a week. For two months. It’s double overhead as I write; the first boomer of the March – November south swell season. Right. From here on the surf just gets better.

Here’s the deal breaker for a lot of you: It’s primarily a longboard wave. 80% logs in the lineup. Me, I love it. You may not.

It’s long, long left, 5-600 yards on a head high south or west. If you’re a noseriding fool and/or you like your cutbacks, you’ll love this wave.

It can get crowded, but never early in the morning, plus it’s as easy going a group as I’ve ever run across. (Hint: sit in the middle section and get all the waves you want.)

Lots of beginners and intermediates. The positive here is that if you’re good, you get your pick of waves. Not so good? You’ll feel at home. No intimidation.

A very laid back beach community. Night life shuts down before midnight. The upside, guys, is that a lot of single female surfers come down, usually in groups. The upside for you females is that I’m here…

As you’ll see from the photos, the beach community is mostly surfy cabinas and palapa style restaurants, and Lourdes’s cantina at the point (Lourdes is a hot female longboarder). Nut palms, hibiscus and hydrangeas scattered throughout; a sort of landscaping-by-God effect.

I’m doing this as a favor to the Valencias and to you, so please make this easy for me; no stream of questions that won’t make a difference as to whether you come or not. (“Is there a food store close by?” “Is there horseback riding?”)

If you’ve been here you’ll recognize the place from the photos. Please don’t write and tell me where I am; I already know. And please, no guessing games. You’re serious about coming, I’ll tell you where I am. (Or, if you agree, we’ll blindfold you at the stateside airport and then…. Nahh…)

This is the ultimate user-friendly surf break. The house (pictured below), though no major frills, is the ultimate surf house. The big porch overlooking the point is where you do your living. (Click thumbnail and videos for the view as it was this morning.)

A board shop right on the point. Plenty of rentals.

Forty minutes from a major airport. ($45 taxi ride right to the door.)

No car needed, although there’s a faster semi-wilderness wave 20 minutes north of here.

There are two apartments, both two bedrooms, queen size beds (room for 4). Modern kitchen, etc. Air conditioning (I never use it.) The front steps are 30 yards from the paddle out to
the point. (In the first photo above the guy is sitting right in front of the house.) This is the primo surf house in the area.

The houses go for $80 a night double occupancy, and $140 for four. No, I’m not getting a percentage, although Esmeralda – aside from being my nurse when I was laid up and aside from throwing me my 60th birthday party – is giving me a break on the long term rental.

The Valencias have a website for this property-- -- check it out for the rental nitty-gritty.

By the way, there are some characters living here. Holy shit. (A former world champ lives just down the beach.)

One last thing. I’m giving up my Montauk house to live here. Says it all about what I think of the place.

Write me at (I expect the usual from the same guys: I’m an asshole for doing this. Okay, I’m an asshole for doing this. There, saved you the bother of writing an email.)


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heading there myself

I am preparing to go here in March myself with a local group. It seems a little surreal right now, but I am trying to get myself into better shape for lots of long surf sessions. With any luck, any major meltdowns in US society will wait until I get back home.


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