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Cowabunga, The Surfing Life

The Surfing Life

 


In contrast, what surfing means to me is exemplified by this little passage from my new book, part of the subtitle to which is a Tale of a Lost Surfer’s Paradise:

But Christ I needed a surf.

In waiting for a wave, in sitting out there between sets, bad thoughts, obsessive thoughts, will surface, but while actually riding, while standing up and searching for that rhythm, no matter how awful the day I’m having my mind is clean and clear and blank and therefore content. I have never, not ever, had a conscious thought, good, bad or indifferent, while in the act of riding a wave. I needed that purity, that vacuum.

For the first time in my life I armed myself for a trip to the beach.

Yes, a Lost Surfer’s Paradise: Is it the paradise that is lost, or the surfer?


Surfgasm

Surfgasm

Some fun with our own soundtrack laid over the longboard flick Going With the Flow"...


Longer

Longer - An Excerpt from the Film by JBrother

I’m putting a short clip from Jbrother’s movie Longer in two sections, here and in the Movie Moments section. I do this because Longer is a great little surf movie, and a great little movie, period. I say “little’ only because of its length, about 30 minutes.


Film by Jack McCoy

Rasta Into the Sea by Jack McCoy

For this issue, Jack's given us permission to run a segment from his outstanding film Blue Horizon. So sit back and enjoy...


Bridge Down

Keeping the Crowds Down, Coincidentally - A story by Allan Weisbecker

Speaking of paradise and the loss thereof, here’s a goofy little occurrence from almost exactly a year before my forced bolt from the home I built there (featuring my good bro Clay)...


Dreaming in Waves

Dreaming in Waves - An essay by Drew Kampion

Here’s an essay from preeminent surf historian Drew Kampion. Drew will be a regular contributor to this section of The Browser -- a coup, if I do say so…


Bridge Down

Surfing, Through the Eye of Walter Iooss

Walter Iooss isn't a 'surf photographer' per se, which is one reason his surf imagery is so unique. The other reason is that Walter is without question the best living sports photographer. Maybe the best ever.


Need a Barrel Fix?

Need a Barrel Fix?

Tahiti Bombs Explode at Teahupoo; Manoa Drollet, Danny Fuller, Anthony Walsh, Bruno Santos and more in a clip from Surfermag.com


Young and Wild and Beautiful Once

Young and Wild and Beautiful Once

A bit of surfy memoir-ing from my dim and sordid past.


Surf Again

You'll Never Surf Again

Here’s the saddest surf tune I’ve ever heard.


Zen and Zero

Zen and Zero

If you didn’t catch this four minute chunk of Zen and Zero in the Movie Moment section, do so here. It’s simply the best surf-odyssey flick in recent years… Don’t worry fellas, it’s not all talk; there are plenty of waves too, including epic Puerto Escondido…

Zen and Zero has won major prizes at four film festivals.

Buy it from the Austrian surfer dudes who made it. Support filmmakers!


5 Questions from Surfer Mag

5 Questions From Surfer Magazine

Surfer recently published a quick Q&A about the goings-on in my new book. It's a quick, entertaining read...


Allan Surfing

Surfer Magazine Interview

Surfer magazine's Chris Mauro talks with Allan Weisbecker (external link, goes to surfermag.com)...


Mahalo & Aloha until next time.

 


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